
Following and reporting on the tragic story of what happened to the Australian brothers Jake and Callum Robinson as well as their good friend and fellow traveler Jack Carter Rhoad has taken a serious toll on us here at Casa Gomez over the last couple of days.
After giving it a lot of thought, I decided to write this open letter, directed to the country of Mexico and the rest of us who love this amazing place, connected at the hip to the U.S. southern border.
I believe that I have a unique perspective from which to speak; not because of my role in managing a large online community reaching over 2 million people each month that focuses on the topic of travel to Baja Mexico, but something much, much more personal.
Some personal history – I have been fluent in Spanish for most of my life and spent much of my adult life living in Latin America, including well over 20 years here in Mexico. It was here that I would marry into a Mexican family nearly 2 decades ago and build a home in a small, fishing community outside of San Quintín.
I was drawn to the area’s raw, remote and rugged coastline in this isolated area located far off the pavement where I would become the first (and only) Gringo resident.
We live here as most Mexicans do, speak only Spanish at home and follow a typical Mexican diet and lifestyle. I manage several local Facebook groups and pages for the San Quintin community – all in Spanish – as well as participate in local civic organizations and social groups.
We have been accepted into and integrated ourselves as part of this community as locals. We attend community functions, events, birthdays, baptisms, funerals, burials, graduations, weddings, anniversaries, civic memorials, parades and everything else in-between.
The detached, off-grid and remote nature of this area where we chose to live was a large part of the initial attraction for me back then I remember, considering it a dream come true to live in such a gorgeous and scenic area of primitive coastline.
However, I would be abruptly jarred awake from that dream nearly 13 years ago, when my wife and I were attacked by three brothers just a few hundred meters from our home, leaving us for dead before fleeing in our vehicle.
I had first noticed them parked up on a hill next to a friend’s house, so I drove up to see what help I could offer as they had tools in their hands and appeared to be working on a car.
It wasn’t until I looked inside our friends property that realized that they had broken into his house, stealing his tools to dismantle a car – not repair it.
When they realized that I had figured out what they were doing, they quickly blocked off the path back to my vehicle and began beating me with a crowbar as well as other tools they had at reach before stabbing me on my left side.
They left me unconscious and badly beaten with a fractured skull and multiple fractures to my jaw with one of the blows cracking the roof of my mouth in two.
When they finished with me, they caught up with Cristina.
She was beaten, dragged into our vehicle and driven to a remote cliff a mile or so away where they cut her throat and tossed her off a cliff before driving away.
Cristina had seen the entire situation quickly escalate from our home and called one of our neighbors first before coming to my aid. That was the sole reason for our neighbors responding so quickly.
They would quickly fan out in search for us, called 911 and provided some critical first aid steps when they found each of us. One of them would search for and eventually follow the perps while staying on the phone with the police, helping in their capture.
Despite the brutal beating, a massive loss of blood and her heart stopping twice, my wife somehow survived that day. I personally believe it was the grace of God but you can call it whatever you want.
The first responder on the scene with Cristina was a cop who also just happened to be a trained paramedic. His actions along with the immediate response of the surgeon waiting for her at the ER,, somehow pulled off the impossible.
She would walk out of the hospital less than a week later and would even come visit me in the hospital ICU unit after I had just awoke from nearly a week long coma.
Our physical recovery would take a few months before were able to return home but nothing would prepare us for the 12 years we would have to endure in the long and twisted legal process to get justice for this ruthless crime.
Back in 2011, before making the change to the U.S. style, open court system mandated as part of a criminal justice reform, Mexico was still operating under the old system of justice that closely resembled the antiquated French system, an administrative process where the prosecutor would slowly lay out their case via statements of charges, evidence and witness statements to the court office of the assigned judge.
Each writ would be presented gradually and methodically over several months time with the defense attorney responding to each one within a required response period of somewhere between 45 to 60 days, and to which the prosecutor could then choose to respond via the same process and time period.
And we – the plantiffs – would have to be notified of each and every writ submitted to the court office, summoned to go into the courthouse to personally sign on each and every one of the writs as they were submitted.
This bureaucratic loop on steroids would normally go on for the better part of a year at bare minimum and probably a year and a half to two years in most cases before the collection of writs and responses would fill a 2 inch thick file. Once all of the the loops of writs had finally reached their argumentative conclusion, the judge could hear closing arguments from each side, issue a verdict and officially close the file.
Even though our court case would continue well beyond Mexico’s transition to the open court system of justice in 2015, provisions in the legislation required that any criminal court cases initiated prior to the reform’s enactment were to be completed under the old system of justice.
In our particular case, someone in prison informed the three brothers who attacked us that they could circumvent their attorney and submit their own writs to the court, handwritten documents that were copied from some legal argument from another case that somebody showed them. The writs were usually full of ridiculous statements and demands of the court that would constantly halt and derail the court case, leading to months of dozens and dozens more writs going back and forth, with nearly all of the defendants requests and demands being denied by the court eventually.
The net result however, was that what should haveonly taken a year or two at most, was stretched out to 12 years, filled two entire file cabinet drawers that consumed enough paper to fell half of San Pedro Martir National Forest; endless chains of writs and responses, statements, testimony, verifications, authentications and tens of thousands of signatures that ultimately represented hundreds of trips we would have to make to the courthose over all those years.
In fact, everyone at the courthouse got to know us so well over time that they would just wave us past the long line of attorneys at the front reception when we walked in.
I even asked jokingly at some point if we had accrued enough time in to qualify for a pension?
The perps were convinced they could wear us down with their scheme and even tried to sue us at one point, using the Ensenada office of Human Rights to make all sorts of wild accusations against us as well as the judge.
But I refused to throw in the towel – it probably had something to do with my genes (a combination of German-Swedish-Norwegian blood which they say were the most hard-headed Vikings).
I do have to stop and recognize the hard work and dedication of the local prosecutors over the years who endured this with us. They stood firmly by us and supported us, finally getting 3 guilty verdicts and sentences of 19 years for each of the perps who are still sitting in a cell at the Hongo prison outside of Tecate.
Living through this experience as well as a couple of decades managing online forums and websites focused on travel to Baja has exposed me to the very best and the very worst about this region of the world.
For the past several days – like most of you who followed this story of the missing surfers – I wanted to believe they would be found safe after getting lost or broke down in a remote area. Or simply show up after staying for a few more days at a point break with unending sets they couldn’t pry themselves away from.
Any story ending but the way this one did.
Exchanging hundreds of messages over the last few days with dozens of friends and families of the 3 young men as well as many of you in this online community, struck a raw nerve with me on several levels.
I could relate to your expressions of anger and frustration over such a senseless event with some of you even questioning future travel plans for south of the border.
Believe me, I get it.
The memories of what Cristina and I went through back in 2011 resurfaced as this story unfolded and we both found ourselves in tears at some point when it just became too real, reliving some of our own worst memories from our own ordeal.
Anger and perhaps even hateful feelings are normal, human emotions in the face of such a barbaric, ruthless and hideous crime, but I strongly believe that some of the comments made by a few crossed a line at some point.
A few who commented both publicly and privately, expressed anger and hate towards Mexico itself; something I found to a large degree to be unfair and simply misplaced. Mexico is not truly defined by its government or institutions, its courts, the police, the potholes on the highways or the criminal acts of a tiny fraction of its population.
The 130 million people of Mexico are who define what makes this country Mexico and well over 99% of the countless thousands of Mexicans that I have come to know over the years are extremely hard working, honest, kind and generous souls.
They are also the most frequent victims of these same horrendous crimes, each and every day of their lives down here south of the border.
But even as good as the vast majority of Mexicans are, the reality of the dangers of travel to and camping in remote areas of Baja are gradually outweighing the benefits anymore.
That same principle probably applies to north of the border as well in my humble opinion. Just a quick search on Google reveals lots of stories of violent crime in remote, wilderness areas of the U.S. each year.
But, there are a few important differences to consider.
First of all, when north of the border you are allowed to carry a firearm into most National Parks in the U.S., but not in Mexico. When camping in a remote area down here and things suddenly turn south in a criminal way, the only ones likely to have a gun will be the guys trying to rob you (or worse).
Another important point to consider is there are far more resources available in the U.S. for law enforcement and parks services to provide patrolling of remote areas with the comparatively large number of officers, rangers, ground sensors and drones at their disposal. Law enforcement and other related agencies down here in Baja have far fewer resources to rely on and they mostly focus those on the more populated areas.
It is what is is.
Third, a relatively larger precentage of Baja is off-grid; something that many of us find attractive, but also means that if you should encounter problems, there will likely be no cell service within miles and few if any resources close by to go for help.
A minor mechanical problem with your vehicle off-road in a remote area could potentially turn life threatening in some situations down here if you don’t have access to another vehicle or a satellite communications device.
Whether you saw anybody or not, it’s quite likely that someone did see you driving into that remote campsite you love and it’s a 50/50 chance these days that within hours, someone will be there behind the rocks and the bushes, quietly watching your movements from a distance, sizing you up as well as making mental notes of your vulnerabilities and possessions.
It’s the simple reality today in remote areas where even if you believe you are alone, you’re probably not.
If you happen to setup camp within x number of miles of a local cartel operation involving moving people or drugs nearby, they may stake lookouts around your camp to ensure that nobody from your group approaches, potentially threatening their activity.
I understand that it’s easier for some of you to simply discard such an idea, based on years of visiting down here without experiencing a single incident. That was me 13 years ago, I used to feel the exact same way.
Recently however, I have been receiving an increasing amount of mail from many of you who are frequent visitors, sharing stories of catching sketchy looking people watching their camps or following behind them from a distance in remote areas.
Lately I have been hearing of cases where some of you have encountered a late model truck blocking a narrow road or trail out in the middle of nowhere, 50 miles or more from any paved road or highway with men attempting to pass themselves off as some undisclosed branch of law enforcement.
None of the encounters I have heard about so far escalated beyond some intimidation and in a few cases minor extorsion, but nearly all of you who shared those experiences told me of feeling badly shaken by the encounters.
Over the years I have come to know some of the owners and operators of a few of the more remote ranches and fish camps south of Ensenada. I ask them who these people are that try to pass themselves off as law enforcement and they tell me that today, the only people you are likely to meet out in the extreme remote bush of Baja fall into 3 general categories:
1) Work in a fish camp or ranch close by
2) A foreign tourist
3) Malandro (someone who is simply looking to take advantage of you)
And then one of them remembered to add a fourth category:
4) Local police and military responding to a drug lab discovered, a dead body or searching for a criminal on the run.
Finding an isolated area down here where you can truly be alone with nobody aware of what you do today is becoming more and more unlikely.
Now please don’t iterpret that to mean that anyone you encounter off-road is out to get you, that’s not what I am trying to say. But even those who live and work in these areas understand that the ratio of good guys to bad guys in remote Baja today is diminishing.
But don’t take my word for it.
Most Mexican families down here who want to camp prefer to seek out well traveled, popular camping areas with lots of people. They know and understand the risks involved as well as the implied safety in larger numbers. They have to deal with the realities of crime down here on a daily basis, not for just a few days a year while on vacation.
To be clear, I am not suggesting to anyone that they should cancel their travel plans south of the border, only to reconsider those portions of your itinerary that might include exploring / camping in very isolated, remote areas right now, unless you’re part of a large group with lots of vehicles, dogs and outdoor lights where the men out-number the women, etc.
I always tell people who ask me questions regarding travel safety down here that when in doubt, do what the locals do, and the locals don’t take their families to explore or camp in Baja’s most remote areas these days.
The main reason why these remote areas have become more dangerous of late is the increasing competition in the illegal drugs market and their expansion into moving migrants across the border.
Remote areas are havens for growing a number of different plants for producing drugs from marijuana to heroin as well as hiding labs producing meth and a variety of other drugs. With the close proximity to the U.S. border, cartels will move migrants heading north (who are unable to pay the $10K coyote fee) through many of these remote areas.
They will require them to carry backpacks full of drugs as mules across remote border areas or by sea, transporting them on large pangas with powerful outboard motors at night on a one-way trip to beaches north of San Diego.
If they encounter you near an area where they grow or refine their drugs or camp nearby where they are staging night-time migrant launches heading northbound, they will see you as a potential threat to their operations.
Local malandros that fit a certain profile will often work with the cartels at times, hired as contractors for specific tasks in operations around these remote locations where the cartels depend on the malandro’s local knowledge and experience.
But the rest of the time when not working for the cartel, the malandros are mostly just hanging out, getting drunk, high and usually waiting for their chance to take advantage of someone that crosses their path. They really don’t care whether you are a Mexican or a foreign tourist – your just their next victim.
So how does all of this go on down here with such impunity?
There is a large amount of cash flowing through the corrupt criminal justice system down here. The more experienced malandros routinely pay off a local cop to look the other way and even pay them to tip them off to investigations and other police operations that could affect them.
If they should get arrested, they will often try to pay the investigators to make evidence disappear, to silence witnesses against them and eventually get the charges dropped for that lack of evidence.
And even if that doesn’t work, they usually only pay a relatively small amount in bail and are back out on the street within hours, often piling up multiple arrests and charges for various crimes in the weeks and months that follow, long before they even face trial for the initial charges filed against them.
Once their first court date comes up, they often have the resources and connections by that time to attempt to buy the verdict they want or even get the case thrown out. And when that doesn’t work they even resort to threatening the judge and their family at times.
All of them know that if they have the cash and are willing to pay for it, there’s a surefire way to bypass the system; shopping around to find a judge willing to sell an “amparo”, which is much like a stay order, but provides an even wider range of legal protections against government agencies and the courts.
The amparo system is totally corrupt and at the root of a large percentage of Mexico’s problems today and all of this is made possible by corrupt politicians who created this legal mess, where justice truly goes to the highest bidder in Mexico.
Don’t get me wrong, criminals do get convicted and sent to prison down here and there are many honest cops who don’t want anything to do with the corruption.
But the honest cops are often bullied and threatend by the dirty cops they work with and are forced to remain silent or look the other way on much of what goes on in their department.
For a well-connected criminal to be sentenced to an extended prison sentence, it often involves a notorious crime that made big news with a lot of public interest or the victim’s family and local advocates willing to make a lot of noise, demanding transparency and justice from their local courts.
Sound hopeless?
Welcome to the life of the 130 million Mexicans who live down here year-round and have to deal with the daily repercussions of this corruption.
For every foreign tourist who is tragically murdered down here, thousands of Mexicans will be murdered or simply “disappear”. Most of those murders go unsolved, or with a suspect released due to a variety of reasons previously explained.
The “good news” involving murders of foreigners in Mexico is that most of their cases are quickly solved with the perps arrested, convicted and with stiff prison sentences. That’s largely due to a combination of pressure from the foreign governments and public outrage on social media from their friends back home and local business owners who depend on tourism.
So how does Mexico turn this around, short of another revolution?
The answers are really not all that complicated on paper, just 7 items. However the depth of the corruption down here likely makes it incredibly difficult to execute them.
But here they are:
1. Rewrite the laws involving amparos and limit their wide ranging powers as well as requiring a much more thorough judicial review before granting such broad and powerful legal protections from prosecution and/or enforcement.
2. Enact new anti-corruption legislation for the criminal justice system, requiring ongoing monitoring of the financial information for all police, investigators, prosecutors, and judges as well as their spouses and senior staff.
3. As part of that legislation, implement MANDATORY minimum sentencing guidelines of at least 10 years prison time for police, investigators, prosecutors and judges convicted of corrupt activities in their official duties. Under the current system, those found guilty of such abuse usually only face short-term suspensions or dismissals at worst.
4. Deny bail to habitual, repeat offenders, increase sentencing guidelines for repeat offenders and build new prisons to house the increased number of inmates.
5. Provide better education and training in a wide variety of different trades for those incarcerated for the first time.
6. Remove the political amparo process currently available to politicians in Mexico and enact similar mandatory, minimum sentencing guidelines similar to those stated above for the criminal justice system for politicians convicted of corruption.
7. Require that Human Rights organizations in Mexico provide EQUAL representation and support to victims of crime as they give to those being processed through the criminal justice system.
Under the current system now in Mexico, the acute level of corruption favoring criminals being processed through the system combined with the plentiful and free support given them via Human Rights organizations has tilted the scales of justice too far to the side of the criminals, making it increasingly difficult for victims of crime to receive any real justice from the system, ultimately revictimizing them again.
Until such types of changes are implemented and enforced down here, don’t expect for these kinds of stories to go away anytime soon.
I pray that I am wrong.
Responses
That was so informative and well written, I had to respond. Thank you for taking the time and for sharing such a deeply traumatic and personal story. I can’t believe what you went through and am happy you both survived. I’ve traveled extensively through Latin America and have had a few close calls, one in particular in Chiapas, Mexico. I’ve also had a few in the United States. Human nature is cruel at times. The trend of violent crime in Mexico seems to be ever increasing and I really hope something gives and we see changes in the justice system.
Sounds a bit like our justice system in America now.. Not justice but Just us.. as in the politicians, criminals, and Police too..
It is the same in the United States. It’s drugs that cause all this violence. The Mexican people have are the most giving people I have ever in countered. Are there bad people everywhere of course there is. You have to be smart and definitely watch your surroundings. .
Thanks for such a complete explanation of what’s been going on. We have traveled and stayed in baja at various Campos for 60 years and I think we were lucky to get advice and friendship from our mexican neighbors, we have always been off the grid. It’s hard to read that people go to and live in Mexico and say they have never felt “unsafe”. Everyone everywhere could be in danger at any time, but are unaware.
Good point, we don’t know what we don’t know. Eyes need to be open all the time regardless.
Wow!! Perfectly explained, and, what an awful experience to u and your wife had, God is good and has a plan for you two. Thank you for sharing.
I am speechless after reading your emotional, heartbreaking, and educational open letter. Thank you!
My husband and I have been fortunate to call Mexico our second home.
Sue Kreul and Richard Larson
Biggest single thing that Mexico could do differently is better public sector pay, at least on line with what middle class people earn there. A US cop can make $100k a year by picking up some overtime. In Mexico it’s like less than 1/10th of that.
Corruption is deeply ingrained though because it’s part of the history of the country over a long period of time. During the Spanish colonial era you could buy patronage of a royal official, or the church, to ensure a favorable outcome for your intentions. It really hasn’t changed that much.
Can people please stop saying “it’s the same in America”? It is not. It’s not even close. Saying so just diminishes the reality of the lives of the people whom live south of the border.
I worked in the the US Justice system most of my career and have been involved in crimes brought before the court that would make what happened to these 3 Australians seem like a picnic. Man’s inhumanity to man knows no borders, my friend.
What has to change in the u.s. is the consumption. Sadly, cartels aim to please and u.s. Americans are fiens for several things in my beloved México; our labor, our lands, our famous ‘hospitality’ where Mexicanos are treated like dogs being handed a treat when tipping, and now drugs. Anthony Bourdain said it best when he said that Mexicanos provide what the u.s. american asks for. Thanks to the consumers and the u.s., Méxicos cartels have the u.s. made weapons and the u.s. led addiction that marks for the nonstop violence to my people are yours. Heartbreaking.
Wow. What a powerful, informative and heart wrenching story. Thank you. I wish more voices regarding Baja- a place i love – were more like yours. Kind, brave, informed, and resilient.
Hey BajaGringo!
Wow! Amazing piece of writing.
Thank you.
Reading it all again right now.
Abrazo
I remember your case. It happened when my wife and I traveled to Baja every chance we got. The people were kind, gracious, happy and helpful. The land beautiful and awe inspiring. We never-never had an inkling of any fear, and we searched out out-of-the-way places to camp and enjoy the solitude. Yours was the first case, I think that we were aware of that made us really stop and think about situational awareness. Before that all we had to do was worry about the guy at the gasolinara squeezing us for a few extra pesos, but it was different then. I’m so glad that after that incident you and your wife recovered and you’ve showed your dedication to Mexico all these years with your articles and comments on different forums. Thanks for this one. I agree 100%.
Hi! As a Baja native, believe me we have been victims of malandros often too. We moved to the US quite a long time ago, but planning to come back as retirees hopefully soon. We are so sorry for the crime escalating so fast and how heartless and despicable some people have become down in our beloved Mexico. Everytime something like this happens, we can’t help but feel ashamed and totally embarrassed of events like these happening in our Baja. We hope that the families of these guys have the relief of the pain of loosing their loved ones lives. I am personally so glad of having persons like you, that take the time and the common sense of calling the authorities to focus on the very necessary attention to these hateful crimes. Thank you.
Well written, Ron! Highly articulated, and well understood. Those of us who live here will always live here because of the people. Yes, we have been victims of crime here as well. And have seen the perps just walk away!
1. Legalize drug use in the main consumer markets.
yep
I don’t agree. People are dumb enough already. Drugs make them dumber. These criminals should “be shot on sight”. Every one of these bastards.
Incredibly well written. It’s an election year and you should run for president! Your solutions are so sound. At least use your resources to get your ideas to the top! I’m so sorry for your horrific experience, but this has given you the fire that may be needed to try to get change finally. I live in Loreto full time and there have been 3-4 murders in the last few weeks. Staying within town or around others at the beaches is a must! Bless you and your wife for sharing your story!
Thank you for such a reason, educated response based on all the years of your experience down here. I learned a lot from reading this. Being a student of History, the more things change, the more they stay the same. You alluded to the fact that the 7-point plan is unlikely to be fully implemented due to the powers that be that resist doing the right thing. One thing you said was that the difference between Mexico and the US is in going to remote places the odds are better up north due to having more personnel and emergency services to help in the event of a horrible catastrophe like the one you guys miraculously survived. Things have changed over the last few years up North with the campaign against police abuse, which by and large resulted in many people now having a lack of respect for police, which leads to problems recruiting cops and sheriff’s deputies to work in these remote areas )along with other complex reasons). Here is an article that highlights this: https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2024-05-03/merced-sheriff-warns-public-safety-crisis-as-deputy-vacancies-mount
Thanks for the work you do, Dave
Thank you for sharing your personal experience. I’m grateful you & your wife are still with us and have a such a strong community around you. Your thoughts & advice are impactful and gave me a lot to consider as I enter my third decade of baja travel.
Wow. What a moving and informative story. Whenever I tell people for the first time we live in Mexico the first thing they always ask is “is it safe”.
I personally appreciate your insight to the dangers that exist in a realistic way. Also your knowledge of the justice system is extremely honest and appreciated. Thank you for sharing your story and opinions. I would never dare to rant about this after your experience you have every right to present the facts and opinions expressed herein. Again Gracias!🙏
Wow! What a powerful testament to the 900kg gorilla that shadows us all here living in Baja. I’m so very sorry for you and your wife’s horrific experience yet more happy you are here to share it and the lessons learned and solutions you offer towards some sort of evolving resolution. My wife and I retired 10 years ago to a small beachside community just north of Ensenada, and hopefully and peacefully end our days here. I love the people and culture of Mexico. As an active retiree (still learning Spanish but enough to have funny communications) I feel it to be a privilege to be of local assistance and so I involve myself in local community food banks and in gathering donatios in support of as well as supporting local community administrations in support of schools and emergency services. The work brings me good and close contact and bonds with locals which I honor. I encourage all my new neighbors to do the same many do, some won’t. I hope with any new economic investment being garnered by the federal and state governments there will be a call to redress the corruption that has been here for so long and simply cant serve the future of this marvelous country. I wish ys all well, and again gracias for your story which I am going to sgare with msny. Be well & safe.
Excellent message. Times are changing all over the world and it’s still a shock to witness this up close.
With 30 years experience in policing both public and private I think one more thing should be added to your list to fix the issue. There needs to be a way for trained individuals from North and South of the border to carry firearms. You are not living in reality if you think you can rely on the Police to help you and must be able to protect yourself. That also applies to both sides of the border as well.
Great information. I remember the shock I felt when I read the story of your vicious attack in 2011. As a commercial fish buyer for years (mostly southern Baja) I spent a lot of time in Fish Camps. Now even that feels risky without a well known local chaperone. Great info. Thank you.
Thanks. Needed that. Frustrated beyond belief as a surfer and explorer who just made his way down there and felt relatively safe, but now I’m constantly watching my back everywhere I go. This truly ruined Baja for me.
Hello
I have lived here modestly for 4 years with my deported Mexican husband that I met over 20 years ago. He has always warned me against exploring in underpopulated areas. We used to love to drive down to San Quintin and stay the weekend at Eddies exploring oyster villages natural hot springs and excursions to La Bocana Erindira and surrounding areas. Unfortunately we no longer have a car to travel south of Maneadero where we live. Many fellow expats living here permanantly were saddened by the news about the surfers. It affects me that I cannot share Mexico with family or friends that fear coming to visit. I remain feeling safe here and protected. I read your article and felt it was well stated and informative. Thank you for sharing.
I am curious are you and your wife remaining in your home here? It is obvious from your post that you as well as I love living here and understand and accept the conditions for those who choose to stay.
Thank you for that excellent article. We’ve lived here in beautiful Baja for over 20 years, but will carefully consider remote travel locations in the future. We love it here, and hope to live here many more years, God willing!
Thank you so much for sharing such a traumatic and personal story and a perspective of the current status here that few could have. After over two decades of vacationing in Baja Sur, in December we retired and moved full time in to the Los Cerritos area. We love our new community and the people we’ve met. The rise in crime is something we all need to be aware of, but it’s not unique to Mexico. Hopefully, some of the suggestions you mentioned will start to be implemented in the near future.
Well thought out and written. Where do you start to get these changes implemented
This article gives me hope and also points to consider when travelling to any remote places whether Mexico or elsewhere. Some places might be more dangerous than others and we just have to take all necessary steps and due diligence before we travel, especially tapping into local news. The news is making headlines here in Australia and the article touches on the Mexican people and how kind they are and for a few handful bad eggs gives an entire population a bad name.
Sorry, but all your suggestions are pointless given circumstances there. To the real power in Baja, Mr. Sicario, I say this: because of the violent actions of a few meth fuelled individuals, you and your business associates have lost millions of dollars. Cinco de Mayo spending? No chance. Timeshare purchase? Not happening. First, sorry to say but drug trafficking is a dirty business. Sooner or later, your own family will suffer. Better to go legit. You can do it. Americans would like nothing more than to spend their money in a safe Mexico. Only you can guarantee their safety. Now, as to the few individuals that committed the crime, there needs to be a loud and public message sent to those that would even think of doing these things. Loud and public. Send the message amigos.
Thank you very much for sharing this information with us. It is the most informative, well written and insightful explanation of Mexico’s criminal “system” I’ve ever read. I am so very happy both you and your wife survived your nighmare! This terrible recent loss of the 3 young men is absolutely devastating. I was wondering; is there or could there be a social media or other platform out there for visitors to reference with safety information when visting Mexico in general? You have already touched on some VERY good traveling general advice which applies to anywhere in Baja. I was thinking maybe more specific to an area? I come from a family of surfers, my brothers have been camping and exploring down there for the past 50 yrs. My bro told me that that particular coastline is very dangerous, and in his social circle, everyone knows NOT to camp overnight, EVER. Im wondering is there a way to communicate to others this important knowledge. It might seem like an improbable, silly idea; I guess I’m just sick over what happened and that maybe it could’ve been prevented if they knew.
Another thing Id like to know from someone on the inside: if I even came up against the nefarious, how best to handle it so as to save my life? Tips beyond the obvious (dont fight it, let them take whatever they want) I camp down there (cortez side) with my BF off grid every summer vacation.
Thank you again for your valuable insight! Its very much appreciated..
Mostly new to Baja this past January. The experience was so magical that I came home injured and dreaming of returning. Sandy beaches got me on a knee dab. I got a ride from Coyote Cal’s to Ensenada from a total stranger, everyone I talked with was kind, all the locals let me cut in line (well they forced me to go first) while getting a bomb haircut in the heart of local hangout Ensenada. All I have been talking about and doing is planning my return. I am a Dad of three boys and was even shopping AirBnB houses, writing to all the nice people I met and planning on 3 weeks in June/July for my vacation… then this happened. Scares me to my core and although I may return as dirt bike rider with some mates I will not be a sitting duck. People react in many ways, it is an odds game for sure but there is no way that I will go now. That is $15k+ in lost tourism changed plans can be amplified across many people after the tragedy. Thank you for the article and honest write-up. What happened to your family is nothing short of a miracle and I am grateful you lived to share the experience. I look forward to a better situation down in Baja, as I would very much like to share the magic with my young boys. Thank you again BajaGringo
What a fantastic write up!!
This article gives me hope and also points to consider when travelling to any remote places whether Mexico or elsewhere. Some places might be more dangerous than others and we just have to take all necessary steps and due diligence before we travel, especially tapping into local news. The news is making headlines here in Australia and the article touches on the Mexican people and how kind they are and for a few handful bad eggs gives an entire population a bad name.
Oh my gosh, wow is all I can say, think….I was forwarded your article by my long time dear ” girlfriend” I met in la paz 9 years ago, she now lives in Dallas, is safe, but struggles. I fell in love with Baja in the 80’s and have ridden dirt-bikes from tip to tip several times, only shook down for money, thank the lord. I will not return to Baja, and it breaks my heart, this wonderful place…thank you for the article, I am so happy your shared and survived your ordeal, god bless
Wow, you really have given this a great deal of thought! Your open letter is very well written and I just love the fact that you’ve proposed solutions as well as identified problems. I always used to say to my staff, before you come to me with a problem, think of a solution and run that by me too. I may not have agreed with all of their ideas, but trying to solve a problem for yourself is the the best way to learn and progress.
Any old who, please forgive any Australians who might have overly vented their anger. We live in a country with a miniscule homicide rate of 0.8 per 100,000 persons, compared with 6.4 for the entire United States and 26.1 for México (UNODC data for 2023). Furthermore, St. Louis in the United States had a homicide rate of 87.83, compared with 105.15 for Tijuana. These figures are almost ‘unfathomable’ to many young Australians, and they do not exercise anywhere enough caution when travelling abroad. They don’t seem to have heard the old maxim, ‘when in Rome, do as the Romans do’. Alas, we tend to teach our young ones that they should be free to go whereever and whenever they want, free from harassment and harm. And that’s as it should be. But the wider world it not always as it should be either.
Having said all that, I sincerely hope that México can overcome the issues that are currently preventing her from becoming a truly great country. The same goes for many Central and South American and Caribbean countries. I agree that the vast majority of people in your part of the world just want peace and prosperity for themselves, their families and their country. I visited México briefly in the 1980s and had a wonderful time. Of course, that was before the most recent troubles.
Your proposed solutions make sense to me and accord with ideas that have been put forward by people born in México who want their country to thrive and prosper. Naturally, these initatives would cost money, and lots of it. A lack of education and training, and comparative poverty, are two of the reasons why local law enforcement is often corrupt.
Therefore, as well as a big stick, Mexico needs to start paying her local law enforcement officials, both police and prosecuters, decently. Police also need to be better trained and, in particular, they need training in detective work. This work should not be left to prosecutors alone and there are some early signs that this approach is working in some places.
My wife has relatives in Italy. One of her cousins was an officer in the Carbinieri. The Italian Carbinieri used to be military police with civilian powers. They are now a strictly civilian Federal police force. About 5 years ago, my wife’s cousin was transfered to a role in the local police force in Naples. His job there is to help address corruption and assist the locals transition to a state where the rule of law applies. No, not a job for the faint hearted! But he had lived and worked in Naples for years before that, so he wasn’t going in with this eyes closed.
These sorts of initiatives have gone hand in glove with similar moves in the judiciary. And they are making a difference in a country dominated by Mafia and old family connections. Of course, it takes time and some very brave individuals to stand up and be counted. And an adequate amount of weaponary! My wife and I once visited a Carbinieri office and were stunned to see machine gun emplacements on the parapets and military style fortifications. I served in our army so I was a little less stunned by it still took me by surprise to see this is a civilian area.
Personally, I reckon that your Northern neighbour, the world’s greatest country (according to themselves), the United States of America, could do a whole lot more to help out. They could pitch in to help with the up-front cost and with training. And if they aren’t feeling overly generous, then they should do it out of self interest.
Afterall, they are the main market for the cartel’s drug operations and people smuggling activities.
If law and order and prosperity could be restored to Mexico, then the supply of drugs and illegal immigrants to the U.S. of A. would dry up. Of course, this would require the U.S. government to divert some of the billions they currently spend on enforcement and deterrence and stupid walls, to aid to México instead. They could also start investing in drug diversion programs in addition to drug enforcement programs at home. It has been proven over and over again, that crime prevention and early intervention is much more effective and way cheaper than punishment after the event.
It’s really all about supply and demand, and as an economist, I sincerely believe that you need to deal with what are are really just two sides of the same coin, if you want the biggest ‘bang for your buck’. And why wouldn’t the U.S. want to do this, a nation prides itself on its economic acumen? Well, I suspect that it’s got something to do with who benefits most from the status quo. That’s where the corruption really begins. Now isn’t that a problem we can all relate to?!
Mis mejores deseos mis amigos y amigas de todas nosotras en la Tierra de Oz (Australia). Please pardon my poor Spanish.
Your letter is very shocking. You clearly draw the reality of my region. I am a native of Mexicali and a lover of the desert and mountains of Baja California. Since I was 13 I have camped in many places: from La Rumorosa to Bahia de los Angeles. Never before, with so much experience and having enjoyed it so much, did I think that one day I might be afraid to return. it’s sad but it’s true. And the worst thing is, there is so much money in the crime generated by the drug trade, that the authorities at both sides, they are not interested in solving it. God willing we have already hit rock bottom. Thank you.
You certainly have tragic and unique experience and a different knowledge base to draw from than myself. I have been traveling and hiking in México for over 40 years and have never felt threatened. Bad actors exist all over the world in ghe form of wars, school shootings, kidnapping, rape, environmental degradation, cartels, sexual exploitation, corporate espionage, economic terrorism, domestic violence, genocide and (etc.), I believe you get the point here. I left the USA because I actually feel safer living here in México. I believe your concerns are certainly well ground. I believe violence and crime in México maybe more pronounced due to the the speed in which we all receive the information and hard to analyze because of lack of past data. To me what happened in a relative fast time in this tragic incident is important progress in México. Law enforcement working with International Liaison Subdirector managed to pin point the murder suspects, arrest them, find the bodies and collect evidense to help prosecute the killers using advanced technology that México is now able to afford. The world is watching México more than ever before because of the country’s new status. USA #1 trading partner. We will see how this all comes to fruition in the legal sense. I am extremely hopeful. Thank you for sharing intimate details of family history.
lol
Hello Ron. Unfortunately we are living in a situation where crime has got out hand and maily because criminals do get away and they know it. Abrazos y no balazos does not help. Great reflexion Ron.
How incredibly sad for all of us, both Mexican and foreign.
No way, IMO, should anyone camp remotely. Without a doubt, someone HAS seen you.
Drugs are everywhere nowadays and druggies have no limits.
Thanks, Ron, for all you do!
I was a little surprised to hear you conclude that a cartel member would consider their operation threatened by camping gringos. I would think the real threat to their operation would be murdering a US citizen. Because with all the local corruption you point out, let’s be honest, when American citizens are involved so are US authorities and a huge amount of top down pressure on the Mexican federal government. Regarding this specific case and my knowledge of the Santos Thomas area, I still believe this terribly unfortunate scenario to be the result of local meth users looking for means for their next fix vs unknowingly getting in the middle of some larger cartel operation. Would appreciate your opinion, as my experience comes from a similar amount of time in Mexico, but closer to tourism areas vs the rural life you have experienced.
A lot information regarding the 2 perps – also brothers – has come out in recent days in the local Ensenada area social media reporting the 2 to be well known meth dealers; not just 2 meth addicts looking for their next fix. They dumped the bodies of the 3 surfers in a nearby well on top of another body belonging to the ranch owner who had been reported as disappeared just a few weeks earlier. There is growing evidence coming out that this fourth murder is connected to the cartel taking control of the area which they are using as a staging area to move drugs and migrants northbound. The authorities have been hesitant to publicly connect the dots , not wanting a narrative to develop of a cartel connection to the murders of the 3 surfers. They understand that potential impact on tourism.
The story that the perps were just interested in the tires on the truck of the surfers is ridiculous and nobody in the Ensenada area commenting on this story on local social media is buying it. Ther cartel typically targets that exact type of truck to use for their ops.
I will repeat my advice again, pay close attention to what the locals do and they are staying away from these very remote areas right now. They know and understand what’s up, even when the authorities are trying hard to paint a different picture…
Why would they then burn the truck they wanted to steal? That doesn’t make any sense?
Because their initial plan of just taking the truck escalated into the murders of the three surfers. It’s not difficult to deduce that they panicked when fleeing the scene and decided to destroy any physical evidence that could tie them to the truck.
Thank you for your fair and expert analysis. Evil exists and it only responds to overwhelming opposition.
No doubt the perps’ immediate attempts to murder you & your wife took a terrible toll, but thankfully God delivered miracles. I hope you both now have sufficient weapons to stop perps cold since Mexicans allowed to own guns. I fell in love with Mexico traveling after college 40 years ago, but no longer trust after 3 terrifying incidents, even getting kidnapped but we climbed walls & escaped. The last time we were extorted by our hotel owner family initially appearing as good, kind Christians who proved to be scumbag rotters. The wife & mother took us to another hotel room stacked with huge bales of marijuana and said her police chief brother would say it was ours and jail us for 15 years or worse unless we gave up all our money and jewelry. We feared for our lives and complied, but I never returned. You’re a hero for reporting & fighting perps, while we felt reporting futile. Common sense says if life is good and safe/happy, hundreds of thousands wouldnt be risking their lives and savings to get into the US. It is too complicated when even American citizens can’t trust that CIA etc. might well be complicit with corrupt country govts (as happened in past). My college BF lives in Dubai after marrying her boss there with no crime–they never had to lock doors.
Thank you for this very well written article. I am sorry for what you and your wife went through. Grateful you are both still here.
I moved here with my little child in 2019. I felt and still feel safer here as black people than I felt North of the border. However, there are places that I won’t go. I have a friend who was robbed of her car at gunpoint right here at our local public beach in early morning hours. I am acutely aware of the corruption and do my level best to steer clear of trouble. It saddens me that our world, filled with supposedly “thinking” humans, is still resorting to violence to achieve a goal. As the song goes, There Must Be Another Way”. We long for a full rich life, for all of us.
Thank you, again!
Being an Adventurous Surfer that grew up in San Diego, I camped at that exact spot many times. Sometimes alone sometimes with friends, In the surfing community it’s known as Punto San Jose or the Lighthouse, there’s a small fishing village up on the cliff to the north with a small lighthouse which has a hidden boat ramp in the cliff which you can’t see unless you walk up to the village, perfect for pulling up pangas without anybody knowing. That little fishing village always gave me the creeps because there was never anybody there just a few hungry dogs.
Thank you for sharing. These are troubled times with desperation everywhere and becoming ubiquitous. Stay safe and happy!
Thank you for your insightful letter. I am new to Talk Baja, having only just learned of the group since this terrible tragedy unfolded. We reside in San Diego (in Ocean Beach, where 2 of the men lived), but are in the process of purchasing land (we have left a deposit & signed a contract) from the very spot where the bodies were found. Needless to say, we are reconsidering. I have not been in touch with the landowner (David Tramp) since everything has unfolded, but I am wondering if you know anything about the fourth unnamed victim who had been missing a few weeks. Was it the guardsman from the ranch house at the well’s location? They previously had their water truck stolen by the cartel.
There are several credible sources identifying the fourth body as the ranch owner there who had been reported as missing a few weeks earlier.
I appreciate the response. I forgot to say I’m so sorry about what happened to you and your wife. That is just terrible…I can’t even imagine the horror.
I’ve lived in Baja Sur for the past 13 years & have camped all over Baja since 1967. Living here for over a decade I’ve never felt unsafe. Thanks for sharing & I will be more diligent in the future.
[…] an editorial addressing the murders, Hoff shared his experience with violence, telling the story of a time when he and his wife were […]
[…] an editorial addressing the murders, Hoff shared his experience with violence, telling the story of a time when he and his wife were […]
Thank-you for sharing Ron, not only your horrifying experience but also your knowledge of Mexico. It is truly a beautiful place with beautiful people and culture. Alas, it is also marked with the bad in all the world. Saludos 😊
Thank you for sharing your story and insight on the current status of Baja.
In the early 1980s we used to surf at remote Punta Baja, reached by a dirt road from El Rosario. We stayed at the government El Presidente hotel in San Quintin. At that time surfers camping at Punta Baja complained that they were harassed by “Federales” sneaking up at night, hoping to catch the surfers smoking marijuana.
Unbelievable poverty was widespread, though the locals were friendly and hospitable, helping us get out of sand when the car got stuck. There was an innocence amongst the locals. This was even before San Quintin became a major agricultural area. The shelves in the tiny stores were mostly bare, selling toilet paper by the sheet, not by the roll.
With the local extreme poverty alongside the expensive trucks, surfboards, of the tourists, and then the drug trade “plata o plumbo” offer you can’t refuse, it is easy to see how Baja has turned into a dog-eat-dog criminal enterprise.
In the early 1980s we used to surf at remote Punta Baja, reached by a dirt road from El Rosario. We stayed at the government El Presidente hotel in San Quintin. At that time surfers camping at Punta Baja complained that they were harassed by “Federales” sneaking up at night, hoping to catch the surfers smoking marijuana.
Unbelievable poverty was widespread, though the locals were friendly and hospitable, helping us get out of sand when the car got stuck. There was an innocence amongst the locals. This was even before San Quintin became a major agricultural area. The shelves in the tiny stores were mostly bare, selling toilet paper by the sheet, not by the roll.
With the local extreme poverty alongside the expensive trucks, surfboards, of the tourists, and then the drug trade “plata o plumo” offer you can’t refuse, it is easy to see how Baja has turned into a dog-eat-dog criminal enterprise.
One of the problems with correctly assessing the incredible level of drug cartel violence and brutality in modern day Baja Norte is the lack of detailed news coverage in most US media outlets. Only one online, conservative news site reports regularly about the Tijuana/Rosarito/Ensenada violence in graphic detail. Reports of beheadings, dismemberments, mass murders at off road car races, military-style battles, and more, should inform the tourist that the idyllic Baja of decades ago no longer exists.
Thank you for expressing why I will never travel there
I’ve been searching for a proper analysis with background information on all of this. Thank you so much for sharing on all levels.
I would add an 8th reform to your list; Make all drugs totally legal and thus destroy the price support protection racket that is tbe US led “war on drugs”. Keeping narcotis illegal simply turns common and easily grown garden weeds (opium, coca, cannabis etc) with a natural value of about 5 bucks a pound into prized commodities worth about 5 thousand bucks a pound. Legalise drugs, burst the price bubble and take away a large bulk of the cartels’ profits over night. No drug dealer – no cartel boss- wants to see drugs made legal. It is their greatest fear.
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Did this evil and brutal attack on you and your wife make it into the news in San Diego? We hunted Quail south of San Quintin perhaps 20-25 years ago. I’m familiar with ranches and small developments in the area.
Excellent open letter to Mexico and the rest of us.
Yes, it was reported in the SDUT. Some of the facts are wrong as part of the story was written based on second hand info, such as Cristina’s wounds. It wasn’t just “a surface wound” to her neck, and she suffered a massive loss of blood that left a large scar on her neck still quite visible today, 13 years later.
https://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/sdut-us-expat-and-companion-beaten-san-quintin-2011sep13-story.html
Ensenada society embraces corruption. I Concur. Americans/Tourists do not invest or visit Ensenada in Baja until they can prove they reduce crime. The police are too corrupted seeking extortion of cash from tourists and citizens alike at all traffic violation stops, usually made up/Fake. It’s happening to many retirees near the La Bufadora daily. The City mayor nor the city council members will stop the police corruption. They allow them to seek bribes. They fail to post fines and everyone who works at the police station, judges, supervisors and clerks all are ALL in the game for a free lunch. Never ever show or tell anyone how much money you have, hide it and carry only $40 bucks in your wallet. We see too many seniors open their wallets to cashiers who just stare at their money and will blink their eyes to another and then they set you up for a robbery. Most go unreported because they feel stupid and afraid. THey need to post a 1-800 number so everyone can report corruption. They need to institute a code of ethics and standards of conduct to all police force or fire them all. They need to Recruit smarter kinder humans. All police and military personnel driver around in these trucks looking like they go to war and checking out the ladies but do nothing to reduce crime. The least they could do is carry bags of asphalt and fill in the potholes on all the main highways and pave the Cantu community roads. But no, to bird lame of a city mayor/council and lacking Effective police operational management skills. They put up all these cameras everywhere but fail to stop crime.
I will never travel to Mexico and nor will any of my fellow friends.
That story is like something out of a Netflix movie ,hopefully a producer approaches you ! .
As you know ,these cimminals for the most part are illiterate but the one who aren’t have a knack for making good reporters suddenly disappear. You are a brave man for informing those that don’t know the ‘ real’ Mexico. Sometimes I wish I didn’t know so much.
Thank you for your informative post. I had been thinking about going camping to Baja, which I had first done over 60 years ago. I am retired now and really love camping and fishing in Baja, but had not done so for many years. My father used to go to Baja to camp on remote beaches with friends, all driving jeeps, pickups, scouts or in my father’s case a Land Cruiser. When we went camping down there the roads were terrible and when camping on the beach there was no one else there. Not like the YouTube fantasy overlanding bs now. Even back then I recall some rough characters hanging around San Quintin. That was around the time when people started to try fishing, to get away from failing farms. I recall driving down the washboard road to Gonzaga bay and passing ranches that sold turtle steaks. Also at that time the local people were so kind and would help any way they could. The green angels were also around to help out if a vehicle broke down. I recall my dad bitching about corrupt cops in towns, so he always would stop in a town just long enough for water, fuel and two cases of beer. In our case there were 6 of us in a Land Cruiser, towing a WWII Jeep trailer camping for a week on the beach in a huge canvas tent. While I have great memories of that time and even took my family camping to Baja, I recall my father telling me before he passed in 2001, that he did not think it was safe to camp in Baja anymore and he recommended I stop going. We never had any weapons, but we went in caravans and everyone was experienced driving off-road/camping and an expert mechanic. I love Baja, but the criminal activity and corruption cannot be ignored. I will fly down there, but I will not try to camp in Baja at this point. That stated, I am not a fan of remote camping by yourself in the U.S. either.
Mexico needs to go to a system of anonymous judges, where the only contact with the judge involves the submission of arguments. The minute these clowns can identify a judge for threats and bribes the case is going to be in jeopardy. The minute that happens the case should go to a new unidentified judge. Not sure what to do with the rest, there are good suggestions here, but ultimately everyone gets scared if there’s no way out of going to jail. That means the judge has to be untouchable.
Poor Mexico, it’s such a great place with great common people. That these slugs are able to ruin it for them is so sad.
Driving down to La Paz to visit my aunt then do some surfing in 2005… Old dodge camper van, by myself. Leaving El Rosario and three guys in a pickup are on the side of the road. The hood is up and they are waving to me for help, but my aunt told me not to help anyone and just keep moving. It’s hot out, but they are only two miles out of town, so I figured they can just walk back for help.
After I drive by, they put the hood down and start up the truck and follow me!
They came up fast and I figured they were no good so I blocked them from passing me on the narrow highway. I got my old van up to 75-80mph and they matched my speed still trying to pass. Two crappy old vehicles bombing through the desert. This went on for a bit over an hour and I was wondering how much gas they intended to burn trying to shake me down. they finally gave up. I was so relieved.
This is similar to car jacking in America. However the remoteness of the place makes me more nervous, and that is on the main highway. I like being in populated areas on the rare occasions I’m in Mexico.
Sir – this was the best article I have ever read regarding safety in Mexico. Your mathematical correction of the rose-colored glasses wearing crowd statistics was genius and should go viral. I don’t know if you are still monitoring this, but would you consider the remote areas of baja Sur as dangerous as the remote areas of north baja? Sure is more expensive to live in Los Cabos, but maybe it is safer to fish a remote beach there than it is south of Ensenada (which sucks because the area south of Ensenada is truly glorious).
Good morning Daniel, camping alone or in a very small group in isolated, very remote areas is becoming a generally bad idea ANYWHERE on this planet today. Just do a Google search on violent crimes committed against campers in US forests and national parks over the last couple of years. Right now the cartels seem to be using the Pacific and Gulf beach areas along Baja California to offload, stage and dispatch product and people, making remote beach areas there a higher risk today. While they may use some beach areas as well in Baja Sur for refueling and some offloading/onloading, the risk there is probably less right now.
My advice to everyone today is to look for camping areas around small coastal villages where people (and help if needed) are just a short distance away. Cartels tend to avoid those areas.
Be safe…
Wow, so sorry to hear your story, this is a real eye opener. My wife and I visited Todos Santos 10 years ago and we’re planning to go back to find a second home for retirement but this is making me reconsider. We would be spending over $1M to buy a house and spending every year in retirement injecting more money into the economy. Mexico will be losing out on all of us who are repelled by the insane violence. We’ll be looking at Spain, our other option. Too bad, we really loved Todos Santos and the Baja.
I hear you and respect your opinion. Having said that, the Todos Santos area is about 600 miles south of the area where this tragic event happened, an area notorious for this type of cartel activity lately due to its accessible port and proximity to the U.S. Not much of that type of activity going on down in Baja Sur. But again, I can understand your reaction…
Agree. I’ve been robbed three times in Baja. All by the cops. So sad. After 40 years of adventure I won’t be going back.
Dear talkbaja.com owner, Thanks for the well-organized post!
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What a horrific story. Well written story and should be commended and shown in as many forums as possible. We still will be coming to travel Baja this winter and will keep this in mind while traveling. Thank you.
Punta San Jose was our secret spot for years. Hours on from the border, turning to the coast, we were safe. The waves? We were the only ones out. Pretty good on a big south swell. Both points working, plus.
Whats happening? How can my favorite place in this world be scary? How? WTF
I arrived in San Felipe for my third trip to Baja when h learned of the boys who were murdered.. a friend told me “it’s horrible but they caught them so Baja is safer today than it was yesterday. ” I continued in my solo camping trek, staying in popular areas. Had I read this letter right after you had posted it, I might have turned back around.
I know it’s dangerous.. I hope things change. I’ve enjoyed exploring on my own but returning now would mean that I’m ignoring the warnings .. for what reason? I’ve done it. I trekked it alone.
I can fly down tourist style next time and enjoy the beauty in many of the same ways.
Thanks for your thoughtful post. You and your wife were so so lucky.
Thank you for writing this, your personal story is a gut wrenching reminder of some very inconvenient truths that we are all better off not forgetting and it must be so painful to revisit. However, it’s also noteworthy that you remain in that place and what attracted you there hasn’t completely lost its sway.
It’s certainly a heavy cautionary tale, but I can’t help wondering whether the people commenting here that this is why they’ll never (again) visit Mexico have been aware of the mass killings happening in their own country completely at random, on a daily basis, and far beyond the control of law enforcement, keeping its own population in a constant state of restrained terror for the past 25 years. I find it terribly hypocritical to judge one country’s crime problems while themselves sitting in one of the worlds most dangerous and violent places without apparently so much as batting a eye.
Wow!!!😮